Devon and Somerset

As you look out across Swansea Bay a coastal outline that mirrors our own appears on the horizon. Merely 35 miles away as the crow flies and oh I wish that was possible, instead of driving nearly 4 times the distance. Though I have to say the journey is definitely worth it, I fell in love with the unspoilt rugged, wild shoreline, when I visited earlier this summer.

Further along the coast are the twin villages of Lynton which stands 450ft above Lynmouth connected by the steepest fully water-powered cliff railway in the country. Much of the town’s development can be contributed to Sir George Newnes an affluent publisher. During the 18^th and 19^th Centuries the resort was visited by the wealthy and famous including the Romantic poet Percy Bysshe Shelley. Also Samuel Taylor Coleridge and William Wordsworth who composed works inspired by the strange, spectacular, landscape they encountered along one of their favourite walks, through the valley of stones.

The unspoilt Victorian town of Lynton adorned with tea rooms offers spectacular views of Lynmouth Bay. Nestled at the foot of the cliffs sits the pretty harbour town. Old world fishing cottage line the narrow streets leading down to the quay, dotted amongst galleries and clotted cream fudge shops.

As you walk along admiring the picturesque surroundings it is hard to imagine all the buildings have been reconstructed. A short distance inland two rivers the East Lyn and the Hoaroak, merge at Watersmeet, flowing along a gorge, then through the town and out to sea. On August 15^th 1952 after days of torrential rainfall over Exmoor a surge gathered trees and boulders, damming the river. This forced a torrent of water to burst through, sweeping away bridges destroying homes also businesses and far more devastating was the loss of 34 lives.

Half a mile west of Lynton the landscape changes and the Valley of the Rocks emerges, a dry valley created during the Ice Age that runs alongside the coast, offering dramatic views. A narrow ridge tops the blocky grey sea facing cliffs. Lower slopes are covered by grass, ferns gorse and with the arrival of spring a carpet of flowers. Stopping to take a photo I was nearly nudged off the path as a herd of wild goats came scrambling over the rocky outcrops, the valley’s local residents.

Following the road further will bring you past the Christian retreat of Lee Abbey, (a private estate still accessible to visitors by payment of £2.00 toll per vehicle) meandering through woodland and down to Lee Bay, where rolling waves break across the pebble shore. Burrowed into the cliff face above, behind large old wooden doors is an unusual place of worship, cool and dark, a tiny Beach Chapel.

Seeing Exmoor ponies one of Britain’s native breeds, freely roam in their natural habitat is a wonderful sight. Driving across the moors we came across a group of mothers (dams) with their foals, glossy brown summer coasts glistening in the sunlight. 

Sneaky seagull’s ever watchful and opportunistic perch along the walls of the quayside, waiting for the unsuspecting visitor to emerge from the chip, pasty and sweet shops linked like an edible daisy chain opposite.

Overlooking the harbour stands one of the town’s iconic landmarks St Nicholas Chapel, dating back to 1321. Built as a place of worship for the people who lived and worked around the harbour, it also maintained a light to guide shipping. A spiralling path winds its way up the high rock of Lantern Hill to what is said to be the oldest working lighthouse in the country. Now maintained by Ilfracombe Rotary Club, occasional services are still held within.

The town’s other iconic landmark is Verity a stainless steel and bronze statue created by Damien Hirst. At 20.25m (66ft) in height, the figure is a daunting sight, positioned at the harbour entrance. The artwork arrived in 2012 on a 20 year loan by the artist. As with many of Hirst’s other pieces this one has also caused controversy he describes the piece as a “modern allegory of truth and justice”. The sculpture portrays a naked pregnant woman, a raised arm holding a sword, balanced by the scales of justice, standing on a pile of scattered law books.

Half of the sculpture clearly shows the foetus, hence she has been called obscene, bizarre, offensive whilst others see her as beautiful, creating a statement. I have to say the piece certainly is a visitor magnet, a plinth alongside carries information about the creation. Weathered by the elements the green – blue patina of Verity merges into the deep fathoms of endless sea as her skyward gaze looks out over the Bristol Channel towards South Wales.